Model Adut Akech wears Balenciag in iDs The-Earthwise Issue Fall 2018.-Photograph by Campbell Addy styling by Alastair McKimm
The Hoodie exhibition at Het Nieuwe Instituut, Rotterdam explores the role of a fashion garment as a socio-political carrier. The Hoodie tells many stories – tales of social inequality, youth culture, subculture, police brutality, racism, privacy, fear and style. It is a garment that sparks a range of emotions, communicating all manner of social and cultural ideas and nuances depending on the gender, geography, age, conduct and ethnicity of the wearer and, in turn, the prejudices and politics of the viewer. Popularised by Champion in the 1930s, the hoodie was a practical solution for workmen; it is now, arguably, Western Fashion’s last truly political garment.
VETEMENTS Ready to Wear AutumnWinter 2016. Photograph by Gio-Staiano
Exhibiting Artists: Rick Owens, VETEMENTS, Exactitudes, Vexed Generation, C.P. Company, Off-White, Lucy Orta, Devan Shimoyama, Prem Sahib, Sasha Huber, John Edmonds, Bogomir Doringer, Campbell Addy, Thorsten Brinkmann, Tiane Doan Na Champassak, Angelica Falkeling, IGNAZ, Daniëlle van Ark, Wouter Paijmans, Lisette Appeldorn, Dana Lixenberg, David Hammons, Aitor Throup and David Casavant.
The Hoodie is at the centre of contemporary dress, hyped as a trend and a must-have item, but elsewhere, is also a signifier of moral panic, banned by certain institutions and dissected by the media as an emblem of inequality, crime or deviancy.
Refuge Wear Intervention London East End 1998 by Lucy Jorge Orta.-Photograph by John-Akehurst
Curated by writer and cultural commentator, Lou Stoppard, The Hoodie is a dynamic mixed media exhibition, uniting artworks with garments, printed matter, digital footage, social media posts and other cultural artefacts. It explores distinct and intersectional themes including the rise of surveillance culture and facial recognition technology; music and subculture; conversations around androgyny and gender fluidity; and the breakdown of traditional dress codes. The show examines these themes in relation to the hoodie, challenging the viewer to consider its multifaceted relationship with contemporary culture. The exhibition also contextualises the hoodie in fashion history, tracing its evolution from 1930s workwear to icon of streetwear.
The Hoodie brings together a diverse selection of artists and makers whose work in photography, film, installation, fashion, and other media is connected by a mutual interest in these central themes. It will feature work by seminal artists and photographers such as David Hammons, Campbell Addy, Sasha Huber, John Edmonds, Lucy Orta and Thorsten Brinkmann, as well as designers such as Rick Owens, Off-White, VETEMENTS, and Vexed Generation. Also on display will be specially commissioned installations by Bogomir Doringer and Angelica Falkeling.
Lou Stoppard is a writer and independent curator.
The Hoodie Now – Sunday 12th April 2020 Het Nieuwe Instituut, Rotterdam @nieuweinstituut
To provide site-specific perspective, the exhibition and events programme has been developed with Malique Mohamud (Studio Narrative) and Chinouk Filique de Miranda. Exhibition design by Studio LA.
Untitled Hood 13 2018 archival pigment photograph by John Edmonds.