Creative Director Jonathan Anderson has collaborated with Amgueddfa Cymru on a landmark exhibition celebrating the work of the artist Gwen John (1876–1939) on the 150th anniversary of her birth.
Anderson, who owns a significant collection of Gwen John’s works, including a rare watercolour depicting a nun on her deathbed, has created a series of cornettes – an elaborate headdress historically worn by Dominican nuns and depicted in many of John’s late works on paper. Anderson’s specially made pieces are displayed alongside Gwen John: Strange Beauties.
The five cornettes, created from different fabrics and colours, respond to John’s sensitivity to texture, colour and pattern. They will stand at the entrance to the exhibition, offering a contemporary counterpoint to her unique artistic vision.
Gwen John, who was born in Wales and lived in France for much of her life, converted to Catholicism in 1913. Her religious beliefs became entwined with her practice, and she repeatedly depicted the nun’s habit and cornette in her work. She was captivated by the elegance and symbolism of religious dress, especially the cornette – a starched white headdress once fashionable in 18th-century Paris and later adopted by the Dominican Sisters of Charity. In her works on paper, John delighted in its crisp folds and luminous whites, making works that evolved from meticulous watercolours to bold, stylised studies. These works reflect a richly imaginative Catholic sensibility.
In the 1960s, Dior redesigned the habit. Now, Jonathan Anderson has reimagined the earlier iteration of the nun’s headdress, drawing on John’s dedication to colour, pattern, and the repetition of styles.
Jonathan Anderson comments:
‘Working in fashion you are always surrounded with the new, yet I’ve never got bored of Gwen John’s works – they grow on me and every time I see them in a different way.
‘When it comes to Gwen John, I think there are certain painters that hit a period in history that changes the way in which we see the female sitter. A woman painting a woman is very different to a man painting a woman because there is an understanding of the female form, there’s an understanding of emotion that is very difficult to get. I think that is why she is one of the greatest painters in British history because she changes that dynamic.’
Lucy Wood, Senior Curator of Art at Amgueddfa Cymru and Curator of Gwen John: Strange Beauties adds:
‘The cornette is a traditional religious headpiece made of starched white fabric that is folded upwards to resemble wings or horns. It was worn by the Dominican Sisters of Charity from the late eighteenth century until the 1960s, when the habit was redesigned by Dior. Upon being informed of this change, Charles de Gaulle exclaimed: “Well, one might as well propose changing the French flag!”
‘A powerful symbol of female spirituality, the cornette is a motif that John returned to repeatedly. Strange Beauties foregrounds the artist’s rich theological aesthetic, showcasing a number of works featuring the cornette. These include delicate watercolours in which carefully drawn crisp linen folds appear icy white and luminous, alongside coloured studies that veer into abstraction.
‘Anderson’s designs respond to this compelling aspect of John’s work and harken back to an earlier time. They echo John’s use of repetition and are made in colours influenced by her palette. I am delighted that these works are being donated by JW Anderson to Amgueddfa Cymru and that they will become part of Wales’ national collection.’
Amgueddfa Cymru – Museum Wales, home to the world’s largest public collection of works by Gwen John, will now also include the cornettes designed by JW Anderson as part of this remarkable collection.
Gwen John: Strange Beauties, 7th February – 28th June, 2026 National Museum Cardiff
Tickets: museum.wales/GwenJohn
Gwen John: Strange Beauties runs until 28th June 2026, after which it will tour internationally.
